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Kashmir is a disputed territory enclaved between India, China and Pakistan. Nuclear-armed neighbours Pakistan and India have fought 2 wars and numerous conflicts over Kashmir which is divided by a cease-fire line between the 2 countries. Since independence the Indian administrated part of Kashmir's status has been regulated by article 370 of the constitution which granted special privileges, a local constitution and assembly to the people of Kashmir. Even though the region has been frequently affected by violence between militants and the Indian Army, a certain degree of autonomy and self-governance was guaranteed through Article 370. The national(its) government of India revoked Article 370 and amended the Indian constitution. The local assembly overseeing the Kashmir budget, education, and economic activity was dissolved, and many Kashmiri activists and senior local politicians were detained and transferred to India. Article 370 allowed Kashmir its own constitution, a separate flag and freedom to make laws. Security, defence and communications remained the preserve of the federal government. One of the main benefits of Article 370 for the Muslim-majority population of Kashmir was the ability to make its own rules and regulations related to permanent residence, ownership of property and fundamental rights. This greatly enabled a mechanism avoiding that foreigners or Indian from outside Kashmir could buy property or settle there. With Article 370 now revoked and recently confirmed by the Indian Supreme Court, it will be just a matter of time before the demographic character of the Muslim-majority region changes for good as non-Kashmiris will be allowed to buy land and develop real-estate projects. More than a million Indian military and police is present in Kashmir, which makes it one of the most dense security areas in the world where there is no direct conflict. All villages and cities are heavily guarded and swept on daily basis so that the hundred thousands of Indian tourists coming on mass tourism tours of a couple of days can feel safe and enjoy the extraordinary scenery. Despite the breathtaking landscapes and hospitability of Kashmiri, one can feel tangible tension and something similar to military occupation. Bach waters of Dal Lake in Indian administrated Kashmir, Srinagar, September 2023